Conch Cut leading out into Exuma Sound from the harbor had less than ideal conditions. If wind is blowing into the cut you want the current to be flowing with the wind. If the current is flowing out of the cut into the wind you can get some very steep nasty seas. Today despite Chris Parker's assurances that there would be less wind today than yesterday we had 20 knot winds with gusts to 25. We did hobby horse in steep 5 foot seas leaving the cut. We had been forewarned by a boat that went out a half hour before us that the seas were rough but "not a problem for a good boat." We felt good about our Caliber 40 and she handled the incoming waves well. There were significant wind driven waves on top of some rollers for about 30 miles. With the wind blowing as hard as it was we barreled along at 7 knots under sail - about one knot faster than we could go under power. On the VHF radio we heard more than one skipper commenting on the rough conditions. Finally, we came within sight of Cave Cay Cut. It was difficult to make out the cut as we approached but our chart plotter led us in the right direction until we could make out the entrance to the Cut. The water changed color from a deep indigo to a lighter blue as we approached. The channel was narrow but not difficult to follow. We emerged from the cut between Cave Cay and Musha Cay (owned by David Copperfield) into another world.. The water was flat and brilliant turquoise. We had doused our mainsail outside the cut and now were comfortably cruising at 7 knots with only half of the jib unfurled. We were feeling pretty accomplished.
Approaching Black Point we had an unhappy sequence of events. Maryanne noticed that a halyard was swinging free in the breeze. I looked up to identify it and lost my "Around Long Island Race" hat. It clung to the rail and our plastic enclosure for a few seconds before flying overboard. I told Maryanne to keep her eye on the hat while I went forward to secure the errant halyard. I got back to the cockpit as quickly as I could and tried to turn the wheel hard to starboard to make a U-turn. The wheel wouldn't move. A half second later I realized I had to disengage the autopilot to make the turn. I disengaged the pilot and headed back for the hat. Maryanne had lost sight of it but we retraced our track on the GPS chart plotter to search for it. No luck. I turned the wheel to head back to Black Point. The wheel would only turn a quarter turn. I tried the other direction. Again it wouldn't turn far enough back to change our direction. I tried again several times making sure that the autopilot was disengaged. Again - the wheel was stuck.
Maryanne used the VHF to call a boat that had been sailing behind us. She informed them that we had no steering. They asked if we needed help. Maryanne replied that we weren't sure and that we would anchor to try to figure out the problem. Immediately, a boat anchored in Black Point Harbor called to let us know that they had a 15 horsepower engine on their dinghy and could pull us in if we needed help. Another boat chimed in that their dinghy was up on their davits but they, too, would put it in the water if we needed help. We let them know that we were anchoring and would see if we could fix the problem. It was 5:10. Windstar IV, the first boat, reminded us that we had limited daylight. The anchor set quickly in about 20 feet of water. This was one time that we were very happy that the Exuma Banks are so shallow.
I pulled out all the paraphernalia that is stored in our lazarette. Out came 3 large fenders, a milk crate full of lines and a dinghy anchor - more crates, large jugs of oil, a cart and just plain stuff. I removed a board that separates the engine compartment from the lazarette - held in place by 4 deadbolts. Wishing that I hadn't grown so much in 9th grade, I bent my 6'5" frame into as small a shape as I could and put my head under the cockpit sole. I could see that the autopilot arm had broken free and was getting caught in the bottom of the compartment. I couldn't see where the left side of the arm had been attached. As I moved a life preserver I could see a small object disappear deeper into the compartment. I searched and found a little plastic and metal pin. Maryanne sent down a pair of needle nose pliers to me to help me remove a cotter pin from the linkage holding the autopilot to the rudder. I was able to free the cotter pin and bolt. After I removed the bolt I found another linkage that was holding the autopilot arm and motor to the rudder post. A few quick turns with the vice grips freed up that linkage. As I freed up the second linkage I could see that a box that it had been attached to had ripped off the wall.
I asked Maryanne to turn the wheel. She said it felt very stiff but turned all the way both right and left. Phew! When I was able to get out of the lazarette we called the boats that had offered assistance to let them know that we were OK and getting under way.
When I pulled up the anchor I realized that the reason the wheel was so stiff was because the lock was partially tightened on it. Maryanne released the lock, I pulled up the anchor and we were on our way by 5:45. Tomorrow I get to see if I can repair the autopilot. Just another day in Paradise! And despite all of this we are still having a good time. It is very reassuring to know that the cruising community is comprised of individuals who are so ready to lend a hand to fellow cruisers in need.
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