Sunday, January 29, 2012

We're Baaaaaack!

Good bye NY cold dreary winter -- Hellllloooooo South Florida.  Monday is our day of inventory, checking out our new sails and readying the boat for a long haul. We have several days of work - organizing etc. to do.  We're hoping to find someone to cross the Gulf Stream with sometime next week - and we are fervently hoping for a perfect weather window!

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Where are the new posts?

We're stuck in NY while Maryanne teaches at Touro College in Manhattan and Bay Shore this week.  The weather here is not nearly as nice as it is where our boat is.  It's in the 20's with snow on the ground.  I'm frustrated because I can't go running outside.  I am looking forward to Florida weather - but both Maryanne and I are a little apprehensive about the new challenges of crossing the Gulf Stream and the Bahama Banks.  We're hoping for a really, really good weather window after the first week of February!

Friday, January 13, 2012

Delray Beach

From Peck Lake to Lake Worth to Delray Beach we have seen some of the most impressive pricey real estate and boats that we have ever seen.  From a lush green palm fringed golf course north of Lake Worth to elaborate palatial homes in the Palm Beaches we couldn't stop pointing  and saying "Look at that!  The 100-200 foot yachts hailed mostly from Georgetown, CI or other offshore havens.  I believe some yacht owners are willing to give up American citizenship to save on taxes.

We had to pass under 9 bridges today.  Three of the bridges were "on demand" and the rest were restricted to half hour intervals.  When we missed a bridge it always seemed that it was by just a few minutes so that we had to wait a half hour for the next opening.  One bridge operator just didn't hear us calling.  Another boat let us know that our radio signal was clear and he couldn't understand why the operator wasn't responding.  The operator then got on the radio to tell us he hadn't heard us.  But in the process of telling us his sentences were broken and garbled.  I'm thinking he was asleep and that was the reason he couldn't put words together properly right away.

Anyway, bridges probably added over an hour to our 26 mile trip.  The best bridges were those that are "on demand."  Many of the operators were friendly and often opened the bridges with timing that didn't even require us to slow down.

Meanwhile our current digs aren't too shabby.
This is the heated pool in our complex overlooking the ICW
and a comfortable home on the other side
This is part of the entrance to our current marina.



Thursday, January 12, 2012

Lake Worth

Today we got a taste of what it's like to wait for restricted drawbridges.  Two drawbridge operators told us they couldn't open because they had work crews on them.  These were supposed to be bridges that "open on demand" as opposed to the restricted bridges that generally open on the hour and half hour.  We made it to one restricted bridge just as it closed for the next half hour.  But wait -- a Towboat US operator with a disabled sailboat in tow came to the bridge 10 minutes early and was given an opening that we grabbed too.  We stayed right on his tail for the next 2 bridges and were granted passage despite the fact that they were restricted.  We are in Lake Worth at present surrounded by about 30 other boats.  This is a jumping off point for the Bahamas but we'll wait awhile before we make our jump.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Peck Lake

Peck Lake is so nice that we have decided to stay here a few days.  Tomorrow may have a little rain and some thundershowers so we'll stay put one more day for a total of three.

There will not be many pictures on this post.  I went for two swims today.  One to scrape off the barnacles on the keel cooler.  The last time I looked at it was in Staten Island in October.  It took me a little while to get into the 66 degree water but finally I went under and found the keel cooler.  The keel cooler is a through hull fitting that fits against the outside of the bottom of the boat.  Refrigerant circulates through it to cool.  I located it after a couple of dives and discovered it was barnacle free.  Checked the propeller - also barnacle free.  Checked the speedometer paddle wheel and spun it a few times - all good.  Since everything was OK I spent a little time cleaning the waterline until my fingers became white with cold.

I climbed out of the water on our big comfortable ladder and had some lunch.  I then tried to pull the ladder up.  It was very stiff so I spent some time lubricating it with silicone spray.  I then changed, had part two of lunch, and helped Maryanne with some of her PowerPoint.  Since it was getting late Maryanne was a little reluctant to go ashore but I pushed - it really is important to get a little exercise  every day.  I went to the back of the boat to hook the dinghy to the clamps we have that hold it stable for boarding.  

Sorry for the lack of pictures but try to picture this:  I grabbed a hold of the ladder to lean out for the dinghy.  The ladder was well lubricated now and (this turned out to be significant) I failed to tie it up.  My second swim happened before I knew it.  The ladder swung out with my hand gripping it firmly and I went underwater.  Underwater with my wallet and my iPhone.  I pulled the iPhone out of its case and handed it to Maryanne.  Then I handed her my wallet.  She pointed out the location of my hat floating away on the current so I climbed aboard the dinghy and rowed after it.  I hardly notice how heavy my  waterlogged sweat shirt was.  The hat recovered I returned to the boat where Maryanne googled: "submerged iPhone dry out."  Following the instructions we dried it and put it in a bag of desiccant.  I really miss my iPhone - I use it for NOAA weather radar loops, NOAA marine forecasts, "Words with Friends" (an online scrabble game), email, tides and currents, as well as my only camera.  I use it to check the stock market, the local weather, to watch TV news, to read Newsday, and to find our way in the various ports we go to, and to search for stores.  I am undergoing severe deprivation.  We will know tomorrow (we have to wait 24 hours to see if it works.)  I'm thinking NOT.  I wasn't able to turn it off and I have heard no sounds coming from it - it usually dings every time it gets hit with an email - and I know there have been plenty.  Oh well.  I know that's what my phone insurance is for but the deductible is $200!  Ouch.  Well I got into the water much faster the second time and after hanging up all my clothes we did take a nice walk on the beach. 
Wires from the St. Lucie Nuclear Power Plant over the ICW channel.


Two days ago we had to pass under these wires on our way to St. Lucie and Peck Lake.  I always wonder if the charts are right when they say 90 foot vertical clearance.  It never really looks like there is enough room.  Imagine hitting those high tension wires with your aluminum mast.  

Monday, January 9, 2012

Fort Pierce to Peck Lake

Yesterday on my 3 mile run I had to cross a bascule drawbridge.  As I ran along the bridge I saw that a sailboat was waiting to go through.  I knew this bridge opens on demand so I believed I had only a few seconds to get through the gates before they lowered and the bridge began opening. I did not want to wait so I turned on the afterburners with my hands pumping high and low as I reached down deep for all the speed I had.  As I passed the control tower I could see the bridge operator laughing at me.  I easily made it across and then realized that he had been waiting for another sailboat coming from the other direction.  The bridge did not open for several minutes but it gave me time to snap a picture of the opening and of the two sailboats passing through.

Today we came upon the prettiest anchorage we have seen in Florida.  We had heard about an anchorage in Peck Lake.  It's not really a lake but just a widening of an area of the ICW.  I had been a little apprehensive about going to Peck Lake because the charts do not give depths there other than a few 3 or 4 foot soundings.  Another longtime cruiser in Vero told us that many years ago the ocean broke through this area in a hurricane forming a new inlet.  To close the gap a channel was cut from the ICW channel to the break in the the barrier beach.  The equipment for filling the gap was brought to the barrier beach through the new channel.  Once the barrier beach was repaired the new channel remained and now forms a 6 to12 foot deep area good for anchoring.  Very slowly we rounded the mark that supposedly marked the entrance to the anchorage and found indeed that the waters off the ICW channel were deeper than the ICW itself.  We anchored in about 6 feet of water only about 150 feet from the Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge.  We launched our dinghy and pulled it up on the beach.  A very short walk on a sandy path through some mangrove trees put us on a beautiful beach on the Atlantic Ocean.  There were only a few other people on the beach and no one near us as we took a walk along the edge of the surf.  After our walk Maryanne returned to the drudgery of preparing for classes while I returned to the beach for a 2 mile run and a dunk in the ocean.  This is my first swim in the Atlantic this season - January 9th!  When Chad and Nicole sailed to Fort Pierce two years ago in January, they practically froze as they bundled up in their boat trying to stay warm.  As I write this I can hear the surf on the other side of the narrow barrier island.  It is beautiful here.
The Hobe  National Wildlife Refuge

A perfect place for a January dip!

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Fort Pierce

It was hard to leave Velcro Beach but we need to get south.  We took a short 14 mile hop to Fort Pierce.  We spent some time searching for a dinghy dock in a monster marina before we finally found a small floating dock to tie up to.  After many nights of secure moorings and docks we are anchored in a spot where the current changes with the tide.  Our anchor, a Manson Supreme, is reputed to be one of the best at resetting itself when the boat pulls on it from different directions.  We're counting on that.  There is almost no wind so we should be able to sleep easy.

Tonight's anchorage in Fort Pierce.  Our boat is the second
from the foreground in this picture.


Maryanne is happy because after a long drought she finally has a real Sunday New York Times in her hands.  We were able take a short walk to the nearby Publix for the paper and to the local West Marine for some items to reduce the humidity in the boat.  Condensation has been a real problem the last few nights with outside temperatures in the high 30's to mid 40's.
I found some more bridges run over and this  path
 on a causeway.  Here I am waving to myself.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Velcro Beach day 3

Among cruisers Vero Beach is known as Velcro beach.  The amenities at the Vero Beach Municipal Marina are perfect for long distance sailors.  There is a laundromat on site, a lounge with wifi and TV, showers, low cost moorings and/or dockage, a free bus into town, or Enterprise Car rental Fri-Sunday for $40.  There is a constant stream of dinghys headed to and from the dinghy dock - many loaded with supplies for the voyage across the Gulf Stream.  Everyone we have met has had tips for us about the crossing and outfitting ourselves for the crossing.  I don't think we've met anyone who hasn't been to the Bahamas and/or the Abacos many times.  When I mentioned to another dinghy owner that I wanted to get a chain for my dinghy but I didn't know what size - he told me to get the thickest one I could because his dinghys had been stolen in Guadeloupe and St. Maartin.  Another cruiser we met told us that he has been living aboard for 22 years.  This is the first place I have been where I have had a sense of a cruising community of very well experienced sailors.

We spent yesterday with my aunt at her condo in Vero.  After the boat the apartment seemed incredibly spacious.  It was strange to sleep in a bed with absolutely no sense of movement under us.  We went out to dinner with her to celebrate Maryanne's big birthday at Bella Napoli.  The food was fine and the owner gave us a nice big piece of birthday cake to finish the meal.  We got to spend some quality time with my aunt with whom we have spent too little time over the years.  It felt good to connect with family here once again.

We met this local artist working on a sculpture in the park.
For exercise today we took a walk through the park past the bridge and out onto a beautifully landscaped memorial peninsula path.



The memorial path with the bridge in the background















On our way back from the park we decided to continue the birthday celebration tonight at the Riverside Cafe.  I had been curious about this place having seen it dozens of times from the bridge above.  It was an experience.  It's right on the water under my favorite bridge for running.  Although it was a little loud there was a mix of young people and oldsters like ourselves.  From our table we could see under the bridge to our anchorage and admire the sunset over the Indian River.  We could also, if we wanted to, watch any of several sports on over 17 big flat screen TV's.

A different view of our anchorage and the Bridge from
our table at the Riverside Cafe.



The most exciting sight today - my first manatee.  It swam slowly past our mooring.  I could see all but the head - so it was either a manatee or an obese mermaid.  The Boston College women's crew team rowed passed us a couple of time doing their Spring training.  Not a bad venue to start their training!







The birthday girl and the slightly funky
decor of the Riverside Cafe.  I missed
including the bowling pin that was mounted
above the mask!

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Vero Beach - bittersweet

After a relatively easy 5 hour 34 mile day we made it to Vero Beach.  We had to make a sharp turn off the ICW very close to a fixed 65 foot high bridge.  I have been on that bridge many times over about a 10 year period.  I have happy  memories of running across it and back from the park on the east side of the Indian River.  I drove across it many times with my parents for dinner at the Vero Beach Yacht Club.  Every time we drove across the bridge we would admire the boats down below.  Before or after dinner I would explore the docks to check out the boats.  I often wondered what it would be like to sail my Moody 33 sailboat to Vero Beach.  I'm sure my parents would have enjoyed seeing Maryanne and me arrive here on our sailboat.   We would have had another mediocre meal and a wonderful time at the Club together.  I am at so happy to be here and overwhelmed with sadness that they are no longer with us.

View from the bridge.  I've seen this view many times.  This is the first time
my boat was part of the view.  It is virtually invisible in this picture - it's
part of a clump of boats in the upper left side next to a green channel marker.


The scene of many mediocre meals and happy
memories of family get-to-gethers.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Melbourne

Melbourne did a nice job with what would otherwise be an
ugly underpass at the end of our marina.
Yeesh!  The wind was making terrible noises last night.  I didn't think I could get to sleep with the howling noise and wires rattling in the mast but sleep is something I'm pretty good at.  The Melbourne Harbor Marina is very well protected and I'm sure I slept much better there than I would have out on an anchor.

We are going to sit out the cold weather today - 40 degrees when we got up this morning - even though it is warm enough in the cockpit with our enclosure.  Tomorrow we head for Vero Beach where my parents lived for more than 10 years.  I really wish they could have seen us and our boat there.

This poor thing looked so cold this morning!  It didn't even
move when I walked by.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Titusville to Melbourne

We stopped in at the Titusville Municipal Marina for fuel.  At 3:45 we were the second customer of the day.  Business from the snowbirds has definitely dropped off this late in the year.  We were told a few weeks earlier we would have been cruising around behind a group of boats waiting for fuel.  The staff at the marina were friendly and helpful.  After picking up our mooring we took a longish dinghy ride into the dock.  We have found that it is very important to get off the boat and get exercise at every available opportunity.  The manager suggested that we might like to try Cracker Jacks, a local restaurant (no relation to the Carribean Jacks where we had lunch New Years Eve in Daytona Beach.)  I ran about a mile and a half around a park and back to Maryanne to give her directions as she walked toward where we hoped to find the restaurant.  We found it.

Drinks and dinner at Cracker Jacks came in at just under $30.  They told me my drink was strong and offered to put in a larger glass with more tonic -- so I guess I got 2 drinks for my money.  The food was very good.  I couldn't resist a picture of the view outside.

The view outside Cracker Jacks
From our vantage point we could see our boat on the mooring about a half mile away.

The forecast for tomorrow is high winds in the afternoon 25 knots and higher with 30 knot winds overnight and gale force gusts.  We want to make progress south ahead of the high winds.  If we don't make it to our marina in time the wind could make docking very difficult.  Anchoring out in gale force winds is loud, uncomfortable, worrisome, and NOT conducive to a good night's sleep - so if we go we will aim for a well protected marina.

Monday:  We decided to go for it.  Winds never topped 18 knots, our cruising speed was close to 7 knots so we traveled the 40 miles in 5 1/2 hours.  We are currently tied up at the Melbourne Harbor Marina.  The manager of the marina assured us that a 6 foot draft vessel had come into the marina from the ICW today so we didn't need to be too concerned about our depth finder alarm.  The alarm set for 5 feet did go off a few times but we cleared the bottom.  The manager further assured us that the berth he had for us had just been vacated by a vessel with a 5 1/2 foot draft.  As the depth finder alarm chirped I very slowly drifted toward our berth.  Almost imperceptibly our boat slowed and stopped before the bow entered the slip.  We were aground.  OK, said the manager, head to the north end of the fuel dock and swing wide to enter the slip.  We did just that.  I came in slowly, more than a little bit apprehensive about  trying to grab the pilings on either side of our stern.  We came in gently.  As he held the bow from the finger pier I dropped a line over one piling and pushed as far and hard as I could to reach the piling on the opposite side to drop another stern line over it.  With his instructions we were able to orient the boat close to the dock but not touching it.  Lines went from our boat to the four corners of our berth.  With a spring line attached amidships we were successfully berthed - our first time ever using pilings on our stern.
This is one of our neighbors.  Maryanne's next boat might look
like this.

We took a nice walk along a waterside park and up into the downtown area of Melbourne.  Melbourne struck me as having a pretty high density of restaurants.  It looked like this could be a busy place earlier in the season.

We passed this guy on our waterside walk

Despite the hundreds of signs warning us to avoid hitting
manatees these are the only ones we have seen for sure.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

St. Augustine and beyond

We parted company with Brilliant Star in St. Augustine where we stopped to pick up a mooring.  We were disappointed with the Little Red Train tour of St. Augustine.  We take these tours to orient ourselves to a new city as we did in Savannah but each time we wonder why we did.  The St. Augustine tour did a wonderful job of making St. Augustine seem like the world’s most tacky city.  St. Augustine has probably done a pretty good job of that itself but it wasn’t until we got off the tour that we understood why people love the city.  The narrow old streets in the old part of town, the architecture, and the art shops we loved.  The tour featured an overly enthusiastic guide who promised us the “absolute best tour in the world” and told us he wanted to make our day just a little bit better.  I’m thinking the CIA might want to use this guy now that they can’t use waterboarding.  His energetic narrative was accompanied by bad Christmas music including Alvin and the Chipmunks.  His voice with the music going at the same time would likely kill anyone with a hangover. 

An example of tacky.
One of the narrow St. Augustine streets












The next day we learned just how helpful it had been to follow Brilliant Star.  I headed directly out to the channel from our mooring.  If I had been paying attention I would have realized that the chart showed that I was moored in 3 feet of water.  Since our draft is 5 feet and we were not aground that is obviously impossible.  Our GPS was off and was showing us in 3 feet of water when we were actually inshore of the shallow area.  As I headed out to the channel the bow dipped and we stopped short as our keel hit the muddy bottom.  We came to a complete standstill.  Yuck.  I turned the rudder hard over and powered up trying to push us around through the mud and back to where we had come from.  Ever so slowly the boat started to turn, then we inched forward until we popped out of the mud.  Another boater helpfully pointed the way out.  Several miles beyond St. Augustine I let my attention wander and discovered that I was a little too far to the left side of the channel.  I turned the wheel over hard just in time to feel the boat bump hard into the mud at 7 knots.  Later I discovered that the cruising guide recommended favoring the opposite side of the channel. 

These are the channel markers we search for every day.
We have seen a hundred manatee speed zone signs.  We
saw a large shape in one of the canals that could have been
a manatee - but we don't know

Every night Maryanne studies the Waterway Guide, Skipper Bob, and the Intracoastal Waterway (Norfolk to Miami) as well as checking the Cruiser’s Net for ICW problems.  She knew about the problem with keeping to the right in this channel but I didn’t check with her about this at the right time.  The next day we coordinated the information about problem areas just before we arrived at them.  There are extremely long stretches of narrow channels with markers that are a half mile or more apart.  These narrow dredged channels can be in the middle or on the side of a 5 mile wide body of water or in a narrow canal.  It may look like there is plenty of water around you but between you and the shore a mile away the depth may be no more than one foot.  You are always searching for the next mark.  5 to 7 hours of this process can become tedious.

This guy followed us for long enough to pose for this photo.  We have many dolphin sightings every day and we
get excited every time we see them.
From St. Augustine we motored too many hours to Daytona Beach.  Feeling overtired  we decided that this would be a good time to take an extra day to relax.  For our New Years Eve adventure we unfolded our tandem bike and rode across one the the bascule drawbridges that had been raised for us the previous day.  Just as we got near the top a loud bell startled us as the gates came down in front of us.  We watched from a very different vantage point than our usual as the bridge went up and a sailboat was towed through.


With temperatures in the high 70's Daytona Beach was the first place where we felt like we were really in warm sunny Florida.
We couldn't believe that this was New Years Eve in Daytona Beach.
I think even the natives were surprised by the warm temperatures.